Soccer match on Kassa

by Anne Harkin

Soccer…the passion of the nation. Every boy plays soccer. Every boy wants to be a champion player. It's their dream to find freedom, travel and wealth through soccer fame and success.

Throughout the streets of the capital little matches are set up using portable, iron mini goals. Troops of teenagers and men jog the dusty soccer fields seeking physical strength and perfection. Sports clothes are all the go - shorts, singlets, joggers - cheap Chinese copies of brand name goods. Even the tiny island of Room has a team in the local division, and today it's the semi-final of the season on the neighbouring island of Kassa.

We climb aboard the pirogue B52 with instruments, gongoma, djembe and bolon*, push out from shore and sing all the way to Kassa. The beach where we land is chocolate brown. Steaked milk and dark chocolate brown, soft, clean volcanic sand, and huge, bubbled, chocolate mousse boulders. We trudge the length of the beach in the searing heat then take a little path through the coconut palms which opens out into a soccer field.  Considerable effort, if not quantities of dynamite, must have gone into achieving the flatness of a playing field amid this island of solidified magma.

The Room fans arrange themselves on the boulders perched up on the hill behind the goal posts, while the Kassa followers form a throng around the edges of the field. The umpire appears. He blows his whistle and from between the coconut trees, the Room team jogs onto the field, resplendent in fluorescent yellow tops, red shorts and a rainbow assortment of socks, joggers and plastic sandals. Their opponents, similarly ragtag, but making an effort with orange tee-shirts, jog onto the arena and the match begins. 

Up on the hill we egg on the Room team by drumming and chanting rousing songs which cite all the team by name. Despite the awful heat, it's all go on the field. The Room boys are in fine form and race about manically to the point where it seems there are twice as many of them as their opponents. They quickly, score a goal which prompts most of the spectators to take to the field in excitement. They disperse and the match continues. Players slide and crash, raising clouds of red dust from the sand and scoria surface. A black goat with two young ones ambles nonchalantly onto centre field. No one seems to notice for quite some time, then she's chased off with pebbles skittering at her feet. Up on the boulders the Room fans are chanting, singing, drumming and cheering on their fellow islanders.   

Two more goals and it's half time. Trois a zero. During the break, women and children stroll about with wares to sell perched on their heads…frozen fruit juice, coconut pieces, bananas, fried sweet biscuits, roasted corn on the cob.

The second half is less exciting than the first - both teams are running low on energy. Some collisions occur, leaving the victims apparently dead, or at least totally paralysed. But no! They spring up, fully restored and play on. End of the match and a victory for Room gives them a place in the final to be held in four days time.  

We file back along the beach to our pirogue which the tide has left some way out among the massive volcanic rocks which litter the shore. Our captain and bowman swim out to fetch the boat edging it carefully between the rocks using a long bamboo pole and the anchor rope as points of leverage. As the boat nears the shore there's a certain competitiveness and jockeying for position among those who would be passengers. One pirogue for over 100 people?? It's not possible! Built for only 20-25 passengers, on this occasion about 80 people scramble aboard, sitting on each other's laps, propped along the edges, weighing it down till the sides are almost at sea level. I can just envisage the headlines…"Overcrowded passenger boat sinks - many drowned"!  

The engine sputters to life and we plough our way over the waves as a huge ball of red sun sinks behind neighbouring Tamara Island. Perhaps 45 minutes later we make Room. Players and fans unload singing songs of victory, chanting the score over and over, "trois a zero! trois a zero!" The village children have come to greet them and singing in excitement at the tops of their voices, lead their heros to the village for a night of celebration. 

gongoma: an instrument made from half a calabash (gourd), faced with plywood and fitted with 3 or 4 blades which can be plucked to produce notes

djembe: large wooden drum common to many west African countries

bolon*: a stringed instrument made from a long wooden neck and 2 face to face half calabashes which form a sphere, which is covered in unshaved goat skin

Anne Harkin   August 2000

doundoumba (street party) in Guinea

All photography and text Copyright ©2000 Anne Harkin